Final Checks

Drive the vehicle to a service station with a lift and once the car is elevated on the lift, inspect the underside as follows: Inspect the underside for any signs of engine oil or transmission fluid leakage. Even a drop is cause for alarm depending on where it is coming from. Check the rear axle for the same thing. Inspect the suspension for broken or damaged components. (Also inspect the shock absorbers for any sign of oil leakage. They should not have oil present on their exterior). Inspect the exhaust system for any signs of damage, broken or loose hangers or corrosion. Look carefully at the exhaust manifolds for any signs of cracking or damage as well as the pipes, cat converter and mufflers. These are all expensive items to replace. On a high mileage car, look carefully for any signs of rust or corrosion on the frame or supporting structure. Again search for any sign of collision damage, looking at the frame in particular for any signs of straightening or heating. Examine the steering arm rubber boots for signs of damage. Check the spare tire and jack. Examine the tires for signs of uneven wear, which would indicate alignment problems.

Summary

If the vehicle passes these checks, depending on age you may wish to have a cylinder compression test performed. If you are suspicious by nature, you may also wish to make sure that the serial numbers match and that the car has not been modified for speed contests in any manner. A professional repair shop or GM dealer best makes these checks. A car that passes the tests above would appear to be in reasonable mechanical condition but the one thing you always have to remember is "If the car is perfect, why is the owner getting rid of it or why did the previous owner trade it in to the dealer?" In other words, you can almost certainly expect to spend money on a used car when you purchase it! Have a certified mechanic perform these tests. The small costs of this precaution can save you a fortune. A certified mechanic will find serious issues that you may overlook. Consider joining a local Corvette club and have a member take a look with you. Or ask a friend who owns or has owned a Corvette to take a look with you. Check all owner documentation, especially the title. If the title is not present, the current owner may still owe money on the car. If this is the case, the title is with the bank or lending institution. Then ask to look see the title. Always check the VIN numbers on the car with those on the title. Do not buy it without completing this step. You may be buying a stolen or salvage Corvette. Make certain the car has current safety and emissions inspection tags. If you are buying a Corvette from a state that does not require emissions inspections, be careful. If the owner removed any emissions equipment, it will be costly to replace when needed to pass your state's emission inspection. You should research current pricing sources before making an offer. Look at more than one C4 to compare prices. Take your time. If you fail to do some pricing research, you probably are going to pay too much. If anything warrants attention, especially major items, use this to negotiate a lower price. Find out from multiple sources what any needed repairs are going to cost. Make sure you are a serious buyer too. If you plan on borrowing money, check this in advance too. You may want to check with your insurance company beforehand too. Sometimes the insurance costs can be prohibitive. If you cannot afford the purchase, do not waste the seller's time. Nothing makes a seller angrier than a tire kicker! Last piece of advice: Do not buy it right away. Think it over for a few days. Talk with other Corvette owners that you know. Always trust your gut instincts. If something feels wrong, it probably is wrong. Move on and go look at another more worthy Corvette. It's out there waiting for you.